Grilled Lamb Shoulder over Fresh Garlicky Tomatoes by Alison Roman

Lots of things went right, and a few things went wrong. That’s the most concise report I can give about making this dish. 

Things that went right… 

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  • The marinade for this lamb is so simple and so full of umami, that it really could be applied to any cut of lamb or steak. It’s just salt, pepper, olive oil, and anchovies. Alison asks for 12 anchovies (about the amount that comes in a Cento can from TJ’s), but I cut it down to 9. I’m always a bit cautious with my anchovy portions, in case they become too fishy. All 4 of us who ate the lamb gave the flavor two big thumbs up. 

  • Fresh garlicky tomatoes are such a refreshing anecdote. Especially after the lamb juices had seeped into the meat. Not to mention their visual appeal. 

  • I didn’t have access to a grill, so instead, we cooked the lamb in a large cast iron skillet on the stove. With the help of a digital meat thermometer, the searing and cooking were very straightforward, and took about 10 minutes total. 

  • Pals! Who doesn’t love cooking with them! I did most of the ingredient prep at home, but brought it all over to Madeline and Sam’s home to do final prep and cooking. And I didn’t cook alone. Which warrants my second MAP moment! (MAP = Make Alison Proud)

    • In the introduction to nothing fancy, Alison states her three guiding principles for having people over for a meal. One of them is to ask for help. This has several benefits. Chief among them is it’s nice to have help! Especially when there are multiple dishes in the fire, and they all need tending to/plating at the same time. Sharing the work also helps your guests feel more invested in the meal. I don’t know about you, but I certainly take extra delight in meals that I’ve had a small hand in. Finally, collective cooking brings about a deeper sense of community. Which is why I asked all of the meal partakers to participate in the preparation. It tasted that much better because of it. 

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Things that went wrong… 

  • First of all (and this is my bad) I read the recipe a little too hastily before grocery shopping. I did not notice the call for boneless lamb shoulder. Instead, I picked up bone-in shoulder pieces at a Middle Eastern market near my home. I don’t think the bones made much of a difference, if any, but it did mean there was less meat to go around. 

  • The quality of the meat itself was not great. It had a lot of fat and was too tough for my preference. I’m a lamb novice. It’s clear that I don’t know how to evaluate a good cut from a bad one. But I now know a few things to look for when shopping for lamb. 

I’d like to make this one again, but next time go for a more quality piece of meat and maybe try my hand at grilling. 

55 recipes cooked, 170 to go.

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Lemony White Beans and Escarole with Anchovy and Parmesan by Alison Roman

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To the three of you who read this blog somewhat consistently — I know that you know that I’m obsessed with beans, and saying so again will sound awfully redundant to you…. But what else can I express other than admiration for this versatile source of protein? And here, another way to make them that isn’t tomato-oriented or meant to fill a tortilla. An entirely new way to treat your beans! 

We’re talking oodles of garlic, anchovies, capers, and red pepper flakes, each infusing a small pool of olive oil. Cannelini beans marinating in the umami-rich liquid, losing all sense of having been in a can. Big pieces of torn swiss chard (or escarole) — some wilted, some fresh. Parmesan shavings, parsley and fresh mint scattered over the top. We’re talking lunch, dinner, a midday snack, or a midnight snack. Main dish or side dish — your call. 

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I’ve made this twice in the past week. (When I enjoy something, I want it again right away.) Once it was served just by itself for dinner. The second time as a side with Alison’s Grilled Lamb Shoulder. Both were excellent. 

Here are some ways that you, too, could make this dish over and over without getting tired of it:

  1. You could forgo the greens and just make the beans. 

  2. You could swap the chard or escarole for kale. 

  3. You could ditch the greens, double the parmesan, melting it over the beans under the broiler, and serve it with crackers like a dip. 

  4. You could spread the beans over sourdough toast. 

Once again, Alison has presented us with yet another inventive way to make beans the center of everyone’s attention. She has my attention, at least. 

54 recipes cooked, 171 to go.

Sticky Roasted Carrots with Citrus and Tahini by Alison Roman

I had a realization the other day about Alison’s use of the word “sticky.” At least when it comes to use in a recipe title, both these sticky carrots and her sticky walnuts use maple syrup, a naturally sticky substance, as a sweetening agent in the roasting process. But oddly enough, both the carrots and walnuts didn’t turn out to be very sticky. That’s about as far as that realization went. Anyways…

Regardless of the lack of stickiness, this carrot dish is rather inventive in its flavor pairing, and in true Alison fashion, is unapologetically bold. I’ve said before that Alison commits wholeheartedly to flavor, and this recipe is no exception. There’s nothing subtle about it. 

The elements at play here are the subtle sweetness of the carrots. I prefer smaller carrots like the multicolored Le Petite bag from Trader Joes. They’re pre-peeled and trimmed so the preparation is simpler. The quartered carrots are tossed with maple syrup, thinly sliced citrus (I used a navel orange), red pepper flakes, and salt and pepper. The other element present is half a red onion, sliced into .5 inch chunks and lightly pickled in lemon juice a few minutes before roasting. The combination of these spicy, acidic and sweet flavors and textures make this not your average veggie side. 

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As if this needed another dimension, a simple tahini sauce coats the serving platter before placing the carrots and onions on top. I’m not always in the mood for a strong sesame seed presence. However, I found myself reaching to dip some of my carrots into the sauce throughout the meal. The tahini’s nutty flavor and smooth texture added another welcome complexity. 

All in all, I found Alison’s signature boldness a perfect strategy for cooking this mild vegetable. There will be more of these carrots in my future.

53 recipes cooked, 172 to go.

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Buttered Salmon with Red Onion and Dill by Alison Roman

True story: this salmon deserves all the hype it’s been getting. 

Instead of the oil poach method, this fish is cooked in the oven, topped with browned butter and some olive oil, slightly frizzled red onions and lemons, and drained capers. It’s plenty briney and tangy, but still rich from the butter. Alison encourages topping the finished salmon with a mountain of dill. The earthy herb presence is not only pretty, but balances the acidic and fatty elements in the dish nicely. Oh, and don’t forget that flaky sea salt! 

thicker cut of salmon

thicker cut of salmon

I’ve made this twice now with different cuts of salmon. A thicker cut of salmon takes longer to cook (obviously) and required some basting to keep the whole piece of fish equally tender. A BBQ cut of salmon, much thinner, only took 12 minutes, and the skin became slightly crispy. When I make this again (which I will do, because it’s really good), I’ll choose a thinner cut, and try searing the skin at the end in a cast iron to get an even crispier result. I’m not sure if that will work, but it’d be worth a try. 

This is my third Alison salmon recipe - I have just one more to go. Once I make that fourth and final salmon recipe, I’d like to write up a power ranking of the four recipes based on this criteria: fussiness, fishy texture, and overall deliciousness. Am I missing any criteria? Please let me know! 

thinner, BBQ cut salmon

thinner, BBQ cut salmon

52 recipes cooked, 173 to go.

Black Lentils with Crispy Garlic and Labne by Alison Roman

In my last post about lentils, I said there were more stories to be told, more memories to share, about these pebble-like grains. For some reason, all my thoughts of lentils are very clear. Perhaps more than any other food, lentils have appeared in very specific moments of college and early adulthood where I felt a shift or a change in my world view. I can look back on each one and think, oh that was the day when I realized ___.  Writing about these moments seems like a valuable exercise, if only to practice remembering them for myself. 

Last time I shared my very first lentil experience (it was not a good first impression). There’s a gap in my memory of lentils between that winter lentil dinner and this next lentil encounter, so I’ll just assume I didn’t eat any lentils between January 2013 and January 2017. 

Sophia & Mark

Sophia & Mark

happy pals, tired pals

happy pals, tired pals

On New Year’s Day 2017, I boarded a long flight from Chicago to Kigali, Rwanda. My dear friends Amy and Margaret, and I, along with our acting professor and his daughter, journeyed to this small, resilient country to teach a 3-week theater course to a group of middle and high school students. Our other dear friend Sophia lived in Rwanda and taught full-time at a school there. She graciously invited us to join her for this theater-intensive course wherein we would work with the students to devise a musical, based on a beloved children’s story called “You are Special.” It was an opportunity to not only use our storytelling skills, but also experience the country that Sophia loves so much. 

I could write many essays about our experiences there, the things we taught and the things taught to us, but that’s not what you’re here for. Instead, lentils. Lentil soup, to be exact. 

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This was lentils’ turning point, there in that Rwandan kitchen with tiled flooring and bright blue walls. On one of our first nights, Sophia offered to cook us a pot of lentil soup for dinner. In addition to lentils, the soup also had angel hair pasta, carrots, tomatoes, onions, and various spices thrown in to simmer over the stove. In opposition to my last bowl of lentils, this soup spent a lot of time simmering, letting the lentils soften and the flavors meld together. Sophia is someone who deeply resists the urge to rush. I could taste her care in each bite.  

Margaret, Amy and I have all tried recreating this soup in the years since that trip, always with the intention of reliving our experience in Rwanda. I’m sure we’ve each gotten close, but no bowl will ever compare, for me at least, to the bowl that Sophia made for me in her home in Kigali on a warm January night. That night I was reminded of how much I need other people, and how that can be a blessing. 

If you’re still wondering about Alison’s lentils, I’ll say that they were delicious and simple. The recipe made wayyy too many lentils for just two people to eat - so I’ll call this one good for hosting others. The dish consists of black lentils cooked al dente and tossed with lemon juice, zest and cilantro. On top of the lentils, you can add a large dollop of labne (or goat’s milk yogurt if you’re me) and some frizzled garlic and shallots. Next time I make this, I’ll cut the lentil portion in half, but keep the same amount of garlic/shallot/labne.

51 recipes cooked, 174 to go.

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